Sooner or later all trips, good or bad, come to an end. This was one of, if not the best vacations ever, and I was sad to to it end.
I’ve got no idea what it is, but this is the last photo I took the evening before we left.
What we didn’t know was the adventure was not over yet.
First off, the Parisians who were kind enough not to riot (sorry protest) while we were there, had plans to restart the demonstrations the day we left. Luckily, we had a 7 AM flight out of Paris, which meant we were being picked up at 430 AM. In general I have found folks who tend to do mischief don’t like to wake up early.
(We learned later that Kaye’s driver couldn’t get through to her, she had to get a uber and JUST made it to her flight. She had a later departure than we did.)
However, what we didn’t figure on was the the local police would want to block roads early on in preparation for these ne’er do wells. Sure as heck, our driver had to do some creative bobbing and weaving to get out of town, but soon we were on the way. I had done some Googling the night before, and I was confident we needed to be in Terminal E2.
Folks, I know SEA-TAC airport and the Spokane airport like the back of my hand. I can get you anywhere, and in SEA-TAC I know all the short cuts. Charles de Gaulle Airport, I am useless!
In the back of my mind was a story when I last flew International. This was back in college and I was visiting my folks in England. I was in Heathrow ready to fly home, and I saw my flight on the board. I’d never really flown on my own before. So I kept and eye on the TV figuring it would say something like, “Tony time to get on the plane.”
Suddenly my flight disappeared from the board….
I went up to the PAN-AM desk and asked about my flight disappearing. She looked at me like “You stupid Yank?” but said, “You are on that flight and you are HERE????” She pointed and said “RUN!!!”
I was off like a shot, and much younger and faster than now! I am pretty sure she called ahead, and there was no real TSA then. I was the last one on the 747…
Whenever I fly, I think about that, so I am never really relaxed until I am on the plane. We also get to airports VERY early just in case.
So there we were at E2 plenty early, and we get checked in at the Kiosk, and go to the Delta line. It wasn’t opened yet, but we were expecting that. This was 5 AM and they weren’t open. 530, same. 545, nope there was movement but not open, 6 AM and still not open, Michelle and I were both fit to be tied.
Michelle finally got some one’s attention who walked over and looked at our stuff and said, “You are in wrong place you need F2.” (Her tone was more on the lines of “You American pig-dogs, go away!”) She was the only rude person we ran into the whole time in Europe. She then vaguely waved in a direction.
Please note all times are guesses from here on…
We started off but there was not one stinking sign that said Terminal F (6:04). We turned back with a plan in my head to grab her by the ear and make her show us, when I found a security guard. We told him we were lost and needed F2.
Turns out F2 is across the highway… Suck ass I was picturing bus or train and we were screwed.
Nope, there was a paved path under the freeway. We were off! (6:06)
On the rough sidewalk Michelle in her Doc Martins was faster than I was rolling the two bags, she led us across, and up to the F2 terminal. I found the first person I could, who told me “You need number 5!” and pointed We were at #1. Michelle said “GO!”
Friends, that 20 something from Heathrow was back! On the smooth terminal I was the wind with the bags and was able to keep up with her! We made it to 5, and there as no line! Bags were on the belt and we headed for security! (6:10)
NO LINE!!!
She got through no problem. I, on the other hand….
At TSA, you can keep lap tops in the bag, NOT so in Europe. I had to take them out and send them back through. Then there was the cough syrup. I had it out for them to check. It had to wait for the iPads to come back through (tick tick tick).
OK iPads fine, “Now we have to test the syrup…” “You can just toss it!” I said. “No now it needs to be tested sir!” First they did the explosive test. Clear. Then it had to go into a machine (tick tick tick) Then they had to discuss….
They handed it to me and said “Have a good flight.” I looked at the watch, it was 620… HELL YEAH we made it. We had just enough time to get a bottle of water before we boarded. I was planning to get coffee on the plane (we had not had breakfast or coffee yet…)
We got on and ready to leave. Then, “This is your captain, I am sorry ladies and gentleman, but the boiler is out on this plane. Instead of delaying you, we decided to take off without it. I am sorry to inform you that this means there will be no coffee….” Luckily it was only an hour flight Amsterdam, where we made the connection to Portland.
We land, and I get coffee and some food, and life is better. Going through the Passport check was easy as pie, and we soon getting ready to board. Michelle shows her boarding pass and goes right through. I show mine and, “Sir will you kindly step over here please….”
I was pulled aside and checked over for explosives. Hands, waist, feet… Was it that I looked shifty?
Or did that security guard from Italy put me on a watch list???
Well, as you must of guessed since I made it home, I passed the test. I was able to board and get to our seats!
The travel gods took pity on us after all that, we ended up with exit row seats! Leg room to spare! I could stretch as far as I could and not touch the seat ahead of me!
From there all went well. We landed ahead of schedule. no issues with immigration and traffic getting home was easy. After a VERY long day we were home.
This will be a trip I will always remember. Michelle and Kaye made it possible. I just hope I do get invited on the next adventure!
I am going to putting the 4 days of Paris into one post. Not because I didn’t enjoy it, quite the contrary, but there was just less to write about. Maybe because I caught my first cold since before covid (more later on that), or we were just a bit worn from the Roman adventures. Regardless, it was something I would not have missed!
The morning started in Rome and I had to navigate a mobbed hotel lobby to get to my morning coffee. The lobby was filled with people I had never seen during the week we were there, all wanting to check out NOW!
In fact, I had to help a lady carry her luggage down the stairs just to get to the lobby. The single elevator was over worked and she was trying to carry 3 suitcases at the same time down the narrow stairwell. I grabbed two, smiled, and said “LETS GO!”
She thought I was being helpful! I just wanted coffee.
Our driver was on time to get us to the airport, and soon we were in line to check in for the flight. This was the only stressful moment for me. For some reason I was convinced we were in the wrong line. I was sure we would get to the front, and be told to go to the LONG line next to us and we’d miss the plane. Luckily, we were fine, and soon we were having a snack and coffee in the terminal waiting for the flight.
Funny thing, this was Easter Sunday. I have never been in an airport where they announced over and over, “Mass will be held in the chapel in 15 minutes…” I am sure there were many travelers who appreciated the offer though.
One worry all three of us had, though, was what conditions were going to be like in Paris. For weeks the Parisians had been rioting (oops sorry protesting) the retirement age being raised up to 64. The garbage hadn’t been picked up in weeks and groups roamed the streets.
However, it was Easter Sunday in Paris as well.
I am not sure if it was Easter, or the fact we were visiting, or both, but the garbage had all been picked up and they took a break from rioting (damn, I mean protesting!) for the 4 days we were there. I thought that was darn considerate of them.
We landed and the driver was there to get us to the hotel. I am still not sure why, but instead of driving around the block to take the one-way road to the front door, he simply backed down the road, going the wrong way, to get us there. Oh well, we were there.
Funny thing, in Rome we joked that the bathroom was so small you had to sit sideways on the toilet. Here at the Hoxton the bathroom was as big as our whole room in Rome!
We were hungry so we stopped at a corner place. They had a burger that looked yummy on the menu, and I hadn’t had one in quite a while, neither had Kaye, so we each ordered one.
People hear me now and hear me well: DO NOT ORDER A BURGER IN PARIS!
They asked us how we wanted it cooked. Kaye said well done, I said medium well. When they came, these suckers were RAW. I swear the cow was still alive tried to bite me back when I bit into it. Kaye sent her’s back, and a new one came, just as raw…. This was the only bad meal of the whole trip!
The food later MORE than made up for it!
After that, we went for a walk to get out bearings. I went from knowing my way around pretty well in Rome, to being completely lost in Paris. I never did get that town figured out. Good thing we had Siri!
We walked down to the River Seine, and I saw some very cool river boats they used for the boat tours, they are pretty darn big!
There had to be at least 75 of them that I saw either cruising or tied up on the docks while we were there.
There were also some local swimmers.
We walked onto the grounds of the Louvre (This building is HUGE it covers at least 2 city blocks lock and one block wide) and I saw the pyramid.
We didn’t have plans to go inside, I am kind of glad actually. As big as it is, you’d need a week, to do it justice.
We were going to an art gallery the next day though, the L’Orangerie for a Matisse exhibit. So we did a recon run to find it.
We located it, and I got my first view of the Eiffel Tower!
As well as the Arc de Triomphe.
And we found out Paris has an obelisk as well! However, unlike the Romans who stole their’s after conquering Egypt, Paris received this one as a gift.
After finding it, it was time to head back to the hotel, grab dinner and head for bed. I was feeling a bit ‘off ‘ but I thought it was just the flight and being tired. I was wrong….
7.25 miles today, 74.83 total walked.
Day 2
I woke up with a sore throat and not feeling 100%. I was worried I might have caught the plague that Nina (our Rome guide) ended up with. But we had only a few days here, and there was stuff to see!
We tried to hit Starbucks for coffee, but they weren’t open, we did find a very nice bakery with coffee down the road, probably a better place anyway!
Once again, Kudos to Kaye. She had us pre-purchase these tickets as well. We were in the much shorter line! At the L’Orangerie was a Matisse exhibit of his Water Lillies.
Being a nature lover I liked it. I learned it is one of Michelle’s favorite works of art. I was impressed with the way the gallery had it set up and asked everyone for quiet while looking at it. People were very respectful about it. I walked around 3 or 4 times looking at it.
Without our guides explaining things, even though we had handheld devices to help with the tour, it was not as much fun as the gallery in Rome.
I did like this photo though
I firmly believe this is the very first wife who got mad at her husband for taking an unflattering picture of her!
This one reminded me of out server who gave us the bad burgers!
It was a memorable visit. Art galleries will never be my go to first choice, but I am glad we went.
It was lunch time! We headed for a place Kaye wanted to try. It had the buckwheat crepe with the egg above. By the time we got there Michelle was dragging some and I was beat. The place wasn’t open yet, so the ladies went inside Starbucks to sit and rest. I stayed outside as it just felt too warm in there and I wasn’t feeling great at all! I did find a yummy chocolate chip cookie though!
Lunch was excellent and revitalized us to walk around some. Later on, we realized that at lunch, we were only a 1/4 mile from the hotel. We coulda gone back to rest a bit, NOPE we did not, we were off again, and made it to Notre Dame! It is still being repaired from the fires. if you look closely you can see the crane behind the building.
I also got to see gargoyles for the first time! I’ve always been fascinated by these. I knew they were there to scare off evil spirits, but I also read they served another purpose. When it rained, they help deflect the run off water farther away from the building, thereby protecting it from water damage!
It was then time to head back to the room to rest up for dinner. The cold was starting to take hold and I was beat.
We’d also walked 11.77 miles that day! 86.6 miles total! No wonder I was tired!
Day 3
We were bummed when we went to bed the night before. We knew today was Eiffel Tower day, but the weather called for rain. We were very pleasantly surprised to wake up and find out the forecast had changed! No rain until tomorrow!
We were hoping to find a spot we saw the first day in Paris for breakfast. As I said, though, I seemed to have left all my navigation skills in Rome. We were unsuccessful in out attempt! However, we did find a place with that amazing croquet Madame (the sammich above with the fried egg). Honestly, one of the best breakfasts of the whole trip!
It was time to head for the tower. We had tickets for high noon to get to the top and sip champagne! Michelle and I had both worked hard to snag these a month before our trip. We were logging on to the site just after 3 PM at home, (midnight in Paris) to get 3 tickets before they sold out! We finally scored and had them in hand.
The miles were starting to take their toll on us and we were all tired! So the walk to the Eiffel Tower was a slow mosey. We had plenty of time, and we were darn well going to take it!
We were all surprised, though, to stumble upon the location Princess Di died while being chased by the paparazzi.
It was a somber place, and you could tell people from all over the world still adored her. In full disclosure, I am not sure I coulda told you the crash occurred in Paris, so I was very surprised to see this.
As we got closer to the tower, the world seems to just get busier. Everywhere you looked were street vendors selling light up towers. There was even a guy doing the shell game. He had 3 red plastic cups and a Ping Pong Ball. He would put the ball under one and shuffle them around. People would bet money time and again trying to pick the correct cup. By the wad of cash in the man’s hand, very few people guessed correctly.
I had seen this in old movies, but never in real life. I won’t lie, I was tempted to try. However, after watching for a bit, and having people select the cup I woulda chosen, only to find nothing underneath it, I chose to keep my cash!
Soon we were at the Eiffel Tower!
There was some work being done on part of it.
This was a common theme wherever we went. The summer Olympics are in Paris in 2024. All over town crews are working to refurbish, clean up and repair almost everything. Kinda took away from some of the Parisian beauty.
As you can see though, we were happy to be there!
For the last there days, I’d noticed there was a thing people did in Paris. Men and women both were taking these pouty lipped selfies. “Well shoot,” thought I, “This must be a requirement!” So here is my attempt!
Maybe not so great…
Funny thing, just past the tower was a smaller replica!
This is the Eiffela tower which is 10% of the size of the main one. It was erected as a joke for April 1 (April Fools Day) this year! Its a good thing we saw its when we did, cuz by the time we left….
For the next 3 hours it was all about lines. There was a line to get in. While in that line, we were worried. There was a sign that said “Top of tower closed for capacity” I was ready to throw down on someone when it hit me. That meant “Top of Tower tickets sold out!”
Then there was the line to get into the elevator for the first level. There were stairs, but knees and energy levels from out heroes made the elevators the correct choice! We got out of the elevator to end up in another sloooowwww. moving line to get to the next elevator.
Now I should mention, by day 3 I realized I was the only adult male in Paris who wore shorts. Turns out that’s all I packed… I was quite comfy until I got to the tower. That wind was COLD! Even I was feeling it. But we coast kids are tuff, so I persevered!
Funny thing, as the line moved, every now and then someone would walk back from the front of the line, either looking mad or sheepish. Turns out people stood in line for an hour just find out they needed a special ticket to get to the top. They didn’t have one…
Finally it was our turn! To the top we went and it was worth it! I love hight places!
And you better believe we got our champagne!
We did a couple laps to check out the views, but by then we were tired of crowds, cold and ready to leave. We made it down off the tower and it was time to head for lunch! I don’t think I will stand in line ever again to go the top of the that sucker, but I am glad I did. Any time I see a photo or a movie with it, I will remember being up there!
There was also this strangely tall woman who was painting the Louis Vuitton building.
By the end of the lane, it was time to head back to the hotel. Michelle and I were tired and Kaye’s knee was killing her. We made it back to the hotel just as the rain that was forecasted hit! Perfect timing. This was a long day.
Miles walked that day 12.46! Overall Miles 99.02!
Day 4 Last day in Paris!
This was the last day, and on the agenda was Christian Dior exhibit. Dresses, hats and handbags throughout the decades. My two traveling companions allowed me to investigate and check out every place I wanted to in Rome, it was the least I could do to come along with them to this.
Once again, prior planning worked, We had prepaid tickets and were the first in line and got ahead of the crowds. The ladies had entire rooms full of exhibits with no one else around. I spent as much time watching their faces as I did he exhibits. They truly loved it!
We had to check our bags, and I forgot to grab a camera or phone, so I didn’t get a photo, but I snagged this one from Michelle. Some of this was truly beautiful, others just had me shaking my head. Overall though, it was a memorable exhibit.
It had rained the whole way to Christian Dior. When we left though, once again the clouds parted, and we had nice weather. However, we finally cried “UNCLE” and took an Uber to our next destination. A church on top of a hill (I just realized I never asked what it was!)
From there, it was a slow down hill mosey to the hotel. Michelle finally found a place to get the macarons she wanted, and Kaye found a hole in the wall shop with jewelry she loved.
Michelle and I had selected this day to celebrate Kaye’s birthday (which was soon after we got back to the states) so we told her we were taking her out to dinner that night. She was excited!
Sadly, that cold I was fighting hit me hard. I stopped at a pharmacy to get something for the stuffy nose and cough and I was given a syrup. “Take a tiny spoonful up to 15 times a day” So once an hour I took a tiny swig. Damned it if didn’t help!
We went back to the hotel to rest for a bit before dinner.
Dinner was fun! We hit up a nearby Italian place, had some wine, and gave her presents we had bought when she wasn’t looking in Rome. It was a great last evening.
I did find it humorous when we were talking to the server and he learned we had just been in Rome. He said, “I like Rome, but I found it very dirty!” We all kept out mouths shut, cuz we had thought the same thing about Paris as compared to Rome!
For me at least, I didn’t wanna leave Rome. However now, maybe it was the cold I was fighting, or I was just tired, but I was ok leaving Paris. I kept remembering a friend of mine, Bridgett who told me before we left.
“Italy is your Nonna who feeds you too much no matter how much you protest. Paris is a beautifully dressed, elegantly bejeweled woman.” Clearly I am much more in tuned with Nonna and food!
It was the adventure I’d hoped it would be. I loved the whole thing. I am so glad I went and Michelle and Kaye were so much fun to travel with. I joked with a coworker and said I was “one of girls” this trip. She informed me that I only become one of the girls, IF and only IF the girls invite you back! I hope they do!
Miles walked that day 8.66 Overall, wait for it, in Rome and Paris we walked a total of 107.68 miles! We earned the food!
Now to be perfectly honest, I have been on vacations over the years where I was ready to leave and go home. I had seen all there was to see, and I missed my own bed.
Rome was NOT one of these times! Given the option I might still be there!
So after the night before we were tired. Hell, Michelle and I didn’t get to bed till after midnight. Last nights meal and the jungle rules battle for the cab kept us up till WAY past our bed time! We were tired in the morning, but we were awake.
Sadly, the weather didn’t seem to be in our favor, Rain was in the forecast, and rain there was when we woke up!
Luckily for us, the rain stopped and we could explore! We first went to the Basilica de San Clemente.
This is a 12th century church, built above a 5th century church, built above a 1st century temple! 1200 years of history!Word of advice, book ahead for tickets. It is well worth the entry fee! Remember, when in ancient Rome, wherever you are walking, you should wonder, “I wonder what is below me?” Cuz I will guarantee you are walking atop history!
I read later that to drain what was essentially a lake on the lowest level, they had to tunnel about a mile to the underground aqueducts under the Colosseum. This allowed us to see the pagan temple and to cross the street to a first century residence.
Once again photos were not allowed, but I snuck one…. This is a wall of the 5th century church.
Afterwards we had no firm plans. However, when we left San Clemente, the weather gods smiled and the rains stopped. We decided to explore a new area of the city. There was an old church within a block of us. The Basilica e Monastero Agostiniano Santi Quattro Coronati.
Sadly when we got there it was closed. All we could see was the courtyard.
I got in trouble with the ladies for peaking into a mail slot on a door. I figured it was a church! Who would mind… (Yeah this is one of the many reasons they don’t take me out in public.
Undaunted though, we continued on! I am still amazed at the buildings we saw. This one just seemed like it was part of the Roman wall atop an apartment building.
Wanting to see everything, almost got me in trouble though…
As we walked I saw these ruins
They looked cool from the outside, so of course I wanted to see the inside. Now, I will fully admit I saw the manned guard station there. It sure seemed like even though I knew I shouldn’t go through the guarded gate, there appeared to be a free path around the gate to the inside of the ruins. So I went. I was right, they were cool!
The ladies were waiting for me to come back from the photo shoot. As I moseyed back past the guard station, this time the guard saw me and he was PISSED!! He didn’t speak much English, but I go the gist that 1) He was mad, 2) I was not supposed to be where I was and 3) I might be in trouble….
I put on my best innocent Tony look and pointed at the walls and said, “I just went there for a photo, that’s it…” Then just sorta nonchalantly walked away. He glowered and followed us for a bit, then let us be. Personally, I think he was actually mad that he did not see me enter, and was worried HE was in trouble cuz he didn’t see me.
We soon figured out that essentially I snuck into the grounds of the Cardinal of Rome’s house…. Sorta like sneaking onto the grounds of a governors mansion here in the states… OOPS!
Before we knew this though, we stumbled onto another obelisk, this time at the Piazza di San Giovanni in Laterano. This is the tallest of all the Roman obelisks.
What I didn’t know then but do now, is we were walking a very historical (Even for Rome) route. Popes of old (and maybe current day but this I am not sure of) would, after being selected to be Pope, walk from here to St Peters while throngs of people would cheer. I honestly have never been anywhere that made me feel the weight of history like Rome did.
After we discovered I had snuck into the Cardinal of Rome’s compound, we decided to go inside and see the building. This dude seemed like was still mad at me!
Afterwards we started back to the hotel, the rains looked like they were going to come back, but as we went by we saw that church was open. So in we went. It was a darker, bit creepier one, but with Easter being the next day, people were hard at work cleaning.
It was time for lunch by then. We knew our last dinner would be at our favorite place, Na Macchia
So instead we stopped at this place that for some reason had pictures of Einstein with his tongue sticking out all over!
The photos might have been strange but the food was good!
We were a couple blocks from the hotel and the rains held off until we got there. It was time to go up and pack to get ready to leave the next morning.
That night we had dinner, dessert, wine and Limoncello. We still had a Paris adventure ahead of us, but I think we were all a little sad we had to tell Rome
We walked 5.83 miles that day, so the Roman total was 67.58 miles.
This was our last day of the Rick Steves Rome tour. We had a blast, and I highly recommend his Rome tour. .
It also turns out it was Good Friday…
Here in the states, that doesn’t affect people unless you want it to.
In Rome, when you are a couple blocks from the Colosseum, and Roman tradition means the Pope comes to the Colosseum on Good Friday… It matters!
More on that in a bit.
On this day we were off the the Borghese Gallery. An art museum.
An art museum? Now, there was a time, hell maybe right before we came to Rome, that if I was told I was going to an art museum I might have made a face like this.
However, even though the Vatican day was NOT my favorite, I did see a lot of cool things there, so I was happy to go see more art.
We met in front of the hotel, and since we had 9AM sharp appointments (they limit the numbers inside, you miss your time you aint getting in) so instead of walking, we had vans take us there. When we were almost there I realized I had forgotten my wallet with all my cash and credit card in the room. Luckily the ladies took pity on me and fed me during the day!
A bit of history, This was the summer castle of Cardinal Scipione Borghese, who just happened to be the nephew of Pope Paul V (I am learning, in a book I am reading, MANY of the male family members of Popes (nephews, cousins, sons?? (this surprised me some. What happened to celibacy?? But I digress)) were named Cardinals by the Pope. Scipione, started an art collection. What we saw in here was partly what he collected, as well as other pieces that have been gathered.
Before I get into the art. There was also a secret garden, walled off from us unwashed masses back in the early 1600s. In it was a good sized building which was an aviary of collected birds. I really would have liked to see them when it was used!
Once again, we had a local guide with us. But they limit the size of groups inside. Francesca took half of us, we were with the other lady. I am sad I didn’t capture her name, but she was excellent! Having someone with you who can help explain the art pieces made it so much fun!
Maybe the reason I was not an art fan in the past is I’d never really seen OLD art… These guys on the ceiling of the first room kept gaining my attention.
The photos don’t do them justice, but they seemed incredibly 3D from the floor! (they aren’t) But I kept moving around trying to convince myself of this one way or the other. I was really bummed we had to leave our big bags, including my backpack, at the front desk. I may have forgotten my wallet but I always have binoculars with me! Those woulda cleared it up quickly! (but yep I’d look like a dork with binocs in an art gallery.
There was a floor mosaic like the ones at the Ostia Antica I really liked.
And the mosaic method is also used in painting, This one had very tiny tiles, as you can see in the last photo, when I zoomed in on the white deer. This is one of the Borghese family members, Paolo.
I did find out I was not a big painting fan, but I REALLY liked this painting, Raffaello’s. Portrait of a Man A coworker told me. “Of course you did! It’s a cranky looking Italian guy, like you!” Made me giggle!
This one also intrigued me.
This is Saint Jerome transcribing the first bible. What we were told was Romans, who remember didn’t believe in the after life, used to keep human skulls in the house. It helped them remember they were alive now and should enjoy it, for later, they will just be a pile of bones!
OK enough paintings. As we learned earlier, paintings are for looking at. Sculptures are for walking around to take it all in. I learned I am a Gian Lorenzo Bernini fan! His stuff is amazing.
This small table top one he did sometime between the ages of 12 – 17, they aren’t sure exactly when.
This one is huge (he was 23 when he did it) , he liked to sculpt scenes from mythology. This is when Pluto (God of he underworld) stole Persephone and drug her done to be his forever. It wasn’t till I got to the back side of statue that I saw Cerberus the three-headed dog who guards the underworld was with him! OH and check out that dudes leg muscles! Pluto had to be a cyclist!
Here is David, from David and Goliath fame. Tell me he doesn’t look ready to us that sling of his!
But the best, the one I walked around time and again, was Apollo and Daphne. Apollo of course was a god, Daphne a wood nymph. The wood nymphs job was a tend the forest and never be with any male, god or man. She was extremely beautiful and Apollo was smitten. So he tried to take her. To avoid breaking her vows, when he started to steal her, she turned into a laurel tree.
Here is a painting of the scene (No idea who painted it) Its ok.
Now here is the sculpture. As I walked around I saw the fingers turning into leaves and the feet into roots. I am sure was I was starting to make people dizzy as I kept walking!
Fun fact, In college I had to take Fine Arts 101 to fulfill a GUR (general undergraduate requirement). Going to art building to look at photos of art was boing beyond belief… We had to do it though. The final was professor showing slides of the art in a huge auditorium and we had to identify name and artist… I tried, but lasted 5 minutes looking at them.
Yep I woulda failed, except Jill, who soon after became a friend of mine, was sitting next to me, and would say the name and artist aloud to herself. I couldn’t hear all of them but heard enough that I did pull a B on the final thanks to her! She loved art.
Wish I knew where she was now! I’d let her know I finally appreciated it as well!
Afterwards, Nina took us on a walk to Trevi Fountain. We were supposed to see it the first evening, but that hail storm shut us down!
So we’re off to see it now, on Good Friday afternoon. We went down the Spanish Steps
And she gathered us at the bottom. She explained that just a few minutes away was the fountain. She then taught a new Italian phrase, Que Bordello (kay bordello) in short a shit show! She told us when we got to the fountain, it would be mobbed! (we were very glad we had already seen it!)
She also told us they turn off the fountain once a week, gather the money that was tossed into it, and then use it to feed the less fortunate. So she encouraged us to toss money in.
I don’t have a photo of the crowd but it was truly nuts! We wormed our way through (be like water!) and tossed our coins in! We were free until the group dinner that night.
I led Michelle, Kaye and I back to her paper store. She bought what she wanted, and Michelle bought me (he who forgot his money!) a small journal I thought was very cool!
I then led us back (I was REALLY good at the end of the trip knowing where we were! I really like Rome!) to a jewelry shop so Kaye could get a Colosseum charm for her travel charm bracelet. She gets one every new place she goes!
For lunch I had wild boar ragu (Cinghiale) pasta! SO good!
It’s a good thing I knew my way around. As we were walking home, our normal route past the Colosseum was closed! Oh yeah, the Pope is coming!
I lead us around, and thought we were stuck again, but somehow a fence was opened and people starting getting through, so I got the ladies in the surge and we were only a couple blocks from the hotel! Success!
We met to go to dinner that night and found out Nina would not be joining us. She had been having voice issues since the night of the hail. However, after she left us at the fountain, she started having a fever and spewing from both ends! She was in bed suffering. Poor thing.
Once again, we had vans to take us to dinner. It was a ways away in the Trastevere district. It was the only full on, multi-course dinner of the trip. We started with a tiny chicory pizza, then a deep fried artichoke (surprisingly good!)
Then a pretty good sized pasta dish (yummy) then a plate of lamb (not my fav) with taters. then a cream dessert. All the while with wine. I was SOOOO full.
Then it was time to go home. We were already at 7.55 miles for the day, 61.75 for the week. It was late, our stomachs were full, and Kaye’s knee was in pain! I was willing to walk the 3 miles or so home, but I was out voted!
Then came the second Que Bordello of the day! The plan to get home was taxi cabs! Beyah got us to a cab stand, gave each group 20 Euros and said “get a cab have fun!” ( She was walking home. )
We three jumped into one cab, only to find out someone else jumped in the front seat. Kaye and I got into another cab, but a 3rd person from the group jumped in and Michelle was left out. I got out, put her in the cab and told her I promised not to walk, I would get a cab!
There was a very nice older couple on the trip, from Oregon as well, that we liked, and they were looking completely lost, and not sure what to do. I gathered them up, herded them into a cab ahead of a cranky younger Italian dude who wanted it, and we were off!
The adventure was not over! All roads lead to Rome they say. But all routes to our hotel go passed the Colosseum and there were dudes with big guns making sure no one got to close. Darn that Pope! (fun fact, he never showed up, he was under the weather as well!)
Our driver spoke no English, but he knew Rome. I swear this guy drove on sidewalks, bike paths and possibly through a few peoples back yards. but he got us home BEFORE Michelle and Kaye’s cab. Ours dropped us off right in front, while those two had to walk a few blocks!
It was a long and interesting, and honestly fun day! Our tour was done, but we still had one more full day left in Rome!
So I realized at the end of the last post I forgot to provide the mileage. On Vatican day we walked a total of 11.19 miles. for the trip we were at 46.73!
But this was a new day! As I had said before, I did not enjoy the Vatican, it was too crowded and there just was not time to enjoy it. I am glad I went, but if I had to pick a day to have skipped, that woulda been the one!
This was a new day though! And I will say where the day before was cramped and uncomfortable, today was the exact opposite.
We were meeting first thing in the morning to board a bus.
Nope not this tiny little guy, though I saw them all over Rome. Thinking back though, I don’t remember ever seeing one with a passenger or moving… Hmmm
I don’t have a photo of our bus, it was nice though! We were heading 30 miles out of town to Ostia Antica. This was essentially a suburb of ancient Rome, and at the time was the main port and access to the Tiber river. The river was later rerouted as was the port)
Francesca was our guide again. She advised that in Rome proper, we saw many amazing ruins and history. However, aside from this slum lord tenement we saw the first day.
There were very few homes to show how normal people lived.
Ostia Antica is an archeological dig of a rural neighborhood, with homes, shops, cafes, and yes, even public toilets!
Before we got too far into the site though, Francesca told us some interesting tidbits.
In Ancient Rome, it was illegal to be buried inside a city or town. Therefore everyone had to be buried outside town. The first part of the site was where people were buried.
I found the next part truly interesting. Ancient Romans did not believe in the afterlife. They lived for today. Achilles was given the choice of a short illustrious life, or a long boring one. Being a Roman hero, he of course chose the glory! Later, Odysseus, when he went to Hell (which means someone believed in an afterlife, but I digress) to rescue someone, he found Achilles there. He told Odysseus that he made the wrong decision. He’d would have rather lived a long life as a slave than a short one to be a king in Hell.
The ancient Romans did not want to be forgotten though. Their hope, after they passed, was that people, whether relatives or others, would remember them. So they wanted to be buried or entombed along a road. The busier the better. Remember the pyramid?
This was right outside the Roman Wall, therefore not in town, and near a gate. So everyone that passed knew who was buried there and would think of him!
But back to Ostia.
So after we went past the tombs, then we went to the theater.
The Colosseum, as were learned, was entrainment using blood and violence. Circus Maximus was for horse and chariot racing. This, though, was stolen from the greek design and was for dramas, poetry and speakers. Entertainment more like today.
Then there was the business district. Each one had a mosaic in the floor in front of their place to show what they did. Essentially an ancient version of the Golden Arches.
The first was olive oil, the next, yep, they could import elephants, and finally the last was a shipping company. I took so many phots of these, it amazed me they were in such good shape!
One story is gross, so forgive me, but as a science geek, I loved it. One building we were shown was a laundry. It was also where they would dye cloth. Evidently back then, the best way to make sure the colors set for good was to soak the died cloth in urine. Camel urine was a the best, but any would do. (I did NOT ask how one obtained camel urine.)
However, we were told that at these places there were large containers outside the doors. As men, and I guess women, would go by, should the urge come up, they were welcome to donate urine to the cause… (told you it was a bit gross!)
OK one more, not as gross but sounded SO painful! At the bath houses, there were vendors who would walk around and offer to pluck the armpit hairs, one by one, for the men who wanted to be completely presentable… OUCH!!!
OK I digress.
So a more upscale home came with a private bathroom.
It would have a private kitchen, and decorative mosaics in the dining room.
Like current day, though, not everyone could afford a house, so many lived in multilevel apartments.
Not all these had kitchens, so there were cafeterias with pictures for menus.
And ovens for cooking.
After being cooped up the day before, I could have roamed this place for hours, it was huge!
Alas, though, the cafeterias here were no longer functioning, and it was lunch time! So we were off to Lido de Ostia, the current port city.
I keep coming back to this, but after the day before, this was so nice! We were turned loose to explore the town and get lunch. We picked a place with an outdoor second floor balcony called Insolito. It was much more modern than most of the places we ate and a bit speedier, but well worth it!
We walked the town and found Michelle’s own plaza (Piazza)
Once we all met up, it was time for gelato. Now this was my first time ever having gelato and the only time I did in Italy. (I am not a big ice cream person) The girls got some the first or second day. You can have a cone or a bowl, but one does NOT ask for just one flavor. You have to get two. If you stop at one the whole machine shuts down, the servers flat don’t know what to do with an order like that (or so I am told!)
So I had strawberry and banana. It was ok. I finished my bowl, but I am still not a big ice cream fan.
It was time to get back on the bus, but we had one more stop, the catacombs of St, Sebastian. No photos were allowed and this time I couldn’t sneak any. Remember when I said no burials inside the city? Well again, this is outside the wall on the Appian Way, one of the most important roads in Ancient Rome. The REALLY rich people still have tombs on this road. Therefore untold millions (billions?) have seen them and thought about them over the years.
However, for the non wealthy, there were catacombs. A maze of underground passages where people could inter their relatives, then visit them. This particular Catacombe has 3 levels, 3, 9 and 12 meters, (roughly 10, 30, and 40 feet deep) Luckily I am short, as the ceiling was NOT high! One of our group was well over 6 foot, he was struggling!
All along the passage were these open areas for bodies (they had all been moved out of respect so they could show them to folks like us (I didn’t ask where they were moved to, Won’t lie, the movie Poltergeist when through my head… Those folks were supposedly moved as well!)
Afterwards we were dropped back near the hotel and we had the evening to ourselves. We 3, or course, went to Na Macchia yet again for dinner!
The day was not quite over though. Michelle was happy to hang out in the room, but Kaye and I had been talking about going out after dark to get photos of the Colosseum at night. So as the sun was setting..
There was no rain, so it was the perfect night! We met in the lobby about 9 PM and we were off! SO glad we did! (My main job was to protect her from Roman axe murderers!)
It was a great end to an excellent day! I had so much more fun that I did with at the Vatican (I promise last time I belabor it!) We did 7.83 miles that day and were now up to 54.2 for the week!
Today was Vatican day. No sense in sugar coating, of all of our days in Rome and on the tour, this was by far my least favorite day. At times I am sure I looked like this!
More about that later….
Nina was very explicit. We were not meeting until 1230. But if we were NOT there on time we were left behind. She told us to meet at Piazza del Risorgimento, at the green snack kiosk. Evidently in the past, she has told people just this. Then at 1240 she got a text saying they were standing here in front of Vatican instead of where they shoulda been!.
These people were left behind. After she warned us, I started laying odds on whether we’d all make it.
However, we had a morning to ourselves!
It was a drizzly day, but nothing like the huge downpour earlier in the week.
Kaye had a challenge for us. She wanted to find a stationery store (in Italy it is called a Cartoleria). Nina gave us some general directions, and we were close, but we couldn’t find the one she was talking about.
OK, that meant we fall back to navigating like the old pioneers. We busted out Google. who returned Cartoleria Pantheon, founded in 1910. As it sounded, we passed the Pantheon, then we passed the Pinnochio store.
And then we found it… It was closed. But Antonius Maximus was locked in and could get us back there later.
We walked back toward the Tiber River. (Fun fact I forgot. The most important item that the river brought into Ancient Rome was Grain. With over 1 million people in the city, the needed the food! )
We crossed the river again at Castel Sant’Angelo
Then I made a quick stop to take photos of an Italian carousel, our friend Kim loves the horses on these.
We were at Vatican city in plenty of time! Which meant it was time for lunch. Nina had recommended a place, and the sign said they were open. But when we went in, they had only a few of the items on the menu ready to go. The only vegetarian option was not one of them. So we were off and looking.
We found iL Panzerotto.
We walked up and the server popped out of nowhere and told us to sit down. We had some dining companions already at the table.
When the server showed up with water, I started turning over the glasses to help. He yelled, “NO!! I am the waiter, why you try to do my job!”
He poured our waters, then while bussing the table near us, he dropped a glass shattering it! “Do not worry! I am waiter I will take care of it!” Then he left with the dirty dishes.
After cleaning up, he then came to take our order. He looked at me and said, “I like you, but I do not know why!” When I thought he had left, suddenly the dog in the photo above was on my shoulder and he barked LOUD!! I yelled in return. Then lost it and giggled for quite a while!
When he brought the food (my order was incorrect but damn good!) he pointed at Kaye and said, “She is beautiful!” Then pointed at Michelle and said, “She is beautiful!” Then pointed at me and waggled is hand back and forth and said, “You? Eh…”
He was without a doubt the server with the most personality we’d seen since we got there. When it was time to pay, Kaye and I were taking turns. It was easier than trying to get them to split the bill. It was her turn. When she tried to pay, he said “NO!” Then looked at me and say, “Why you let lady pay?? NO!” Which got us all laughing, and I paid.
Now in our orientation with Nina, she told us it was NOT customary to tip the wait staff. In Rome, they were paid a living wage, and Italians do not tip.
Our friend here either did not agree with that, or figured we were Americans so we were used to tipping, or both! So he took my card for payment then put down a bowl, “This is for my tip!” as he waked away.
The food was excellent, the entertainment was hilarious, so what the hell, we tipped! I have a weakness for servers and bartenders who make the visit more fun!
We had a bit of time to kill, so we made our way to the St Peters Square outside the Sistine Chape. (that’s the photo above.) There was a line a mile long. we just went around it as we weren’t going inside yet.
Suddenly the gates opened and people were in an all out run to get to where they were lined up to go. I was never quite sure what they were waiting for, but I am sure as heck glad I was not in front of them!
We had been told there were Trams in Rome, but we hadn’t see one. Now we spotted one and we are pretty sure Mussolini rode on it when he was a kid
We met Nina in plenty of time, but sure as hell, 2 people were missing. Nina was NOT happy. She got a text saying the 2 ladies were stuck behind a chain link fence. Nina got them on the phone and told them they had one more chance. Meet us at the Vatican Museum entrance in 10 minutes or they were out of luck!
They made it just in time. We got inside and we three were excited to take the tour.
That’s when the wheels came off.
I can’t remember the local guide’s name who took over for Nina inside, but her voice was just hard to hear, no matter how I adjusted the volume.
Just a quick note, she did inform us that photographs inside the Sistine chapel were not allowed. “Don’t do it!”
Now yall know I hates being told not to do something if there isn’t a good reason given… So I started practicing for stealth photos!
The goal of course was no NOT get my nose in the photo!
I was able to get a photo of the Popes parking lot. Sadly, the Pope-mobile must have been getting the oil changed!
Why didn’t I enjoy it? Well if I coulda been wearing this.
Or had him at my side.
I could have stopped and enjoyed it all. But there was so much to see and and it was a literal river of people! You flowed and looked and tried to listen…. If I would have tripped, no one would have ever seen me.
I took a lot of photos, but truly I don’t remember what they were. Suddenly we were in the Sistine chapel.
Where I expected to find quiet and reverence, there were big guards yelling “NO PHOTOS!” “CLEAR THE WAY!” “MOVE ALONG!”
We had to stay put, as we meeting the guides after ‘enjoying’ the chapel. They were our way into St Peter’s Basilica.
So I later learned that the reason no photos are allowed was not due to reverence or holiness. It’s because a Japanese media company paid to clean and restore the ceiling. In trade, they were given exclusive media rights for making money showing the ceiling in print and video.
Well now, A) I am not making any money on this, and B) I am pretty sure Antonius Maximus, he who I was reincarnated from, bought Michelangelo’s great great great granpappy a glass of wine or 2 in our day, so I am gonna take a chance here! The practice shots helped. Here is part of the ceiling.
I’ll take it down if they ask me to.
We were finally out of the river of people and into St. Peters. I wanted to knock on the Popes door to see if he was home, but Michelle and Kaye said no.
I found this very interesting. It is the list, in marble, of all the popes. Being me, I have to wonder: What happens when they run out of room?
I didn’t know, until we got to St. Peter’s, that you can climb to the top of the dome.
I also found it interesting that there were a number of confession booths in the church (I did not partake, I’d probably still be there.) Each one, though, had specific languages posted so one knew which one to choose from.
By then, though I was so peopled out, I was ready to leave, so we skipped it.
When we got outside, we were free to travel on our own again. It was raining hard enough that even the Swiss Guard had rain gear on.
The weather wasn’t so bad that we couldn’t walk back though. I let the way, heading for Kayes Cartoleria. Along the way we found the Fountain of Moro
And the Obelisco Agonalis Obelisk in the Plaza Navona. Quite pretty!
Fun fact about Kaye, she has a charm bracelet and loves to buy charms from places she has been to. On our way to the paper store. we found a store with charms in the window, but alas, they were closed!
But by now y’all know I made sure to make note of where it was…
Then we stumbled on a store where I could buy an outfit that would be great for halloween!
Mon Signor Valente?
I won’t say I wasn’t tempted, but I am damn sure lightning WOULD have struck if I put something like this on!
From there it was a slow stroll to the paper store, then back to the hotel. Dinner was at Na Macchia again, but this time Limoncello was dessert.
Folks, it’s not that I hated the Vatican, nor would I have wanted to miss it. I saw a lot, there was just no time to enjoy the experience. I don’t think I’ll visit it again, or if I do, it will only be to climb the dome!
OK, a couple fun facts to end this post.
You will see this pine cone symbol all over town. It represents the cones from the umbrella trees which grow everywhere.
These cones are the sources of pine nuts you can buy at the store. But the pine cone symbolizes life and growth. I won’t like, I was sure it was a Pineapple…. Michelle knew better.
Also all over town, you will see the letters S. P. Q. R. There were even tattooed or branded on the arm of Russell Crowe’s character in Gladiator.
It stands for the Senate and the People of Rome (Senatus Populusque Romanus.) The city’s municipal coat of arms and was on all the ancient coins of Rome. It’s fun to spot these in your travels.
Today started a bit different. We weren’t meeting the group until a bit later in the morning, to we roamed further afield in search of breakfast. We hit a Bar close to the Peter in Chains church we saw yesterday. It was yummy, but turned out to have the exact same food all the other bars near us did.
Our travel was different as well. Nina had us going on a subway ride. It’s honestly the first time I think I’ve ever been on one.
A bit of a side note here. Rome has an A line and B line. It sounds like they are working on a C line. Now we know Rome wasn’t built in a day. And the Colosseum took about 6 years to build. But for there C line, Nina estimates that maybe our great grandkids kids might see it done…
We were off to a more modern part of town, Aventine Hill. (one of the 7 hills of Rome). We came upon at the site of Circus Maximus (now just a grassy field. This is where ancient horse and chariot races were held. Where the Colosseum could hold 50,000 people, 150,000 could watch the races.
I saw my first angry Italian that day. We were gathered and Nina was talking. We were blocking the bike path. A cyclist came up and she was reading Nina the riot act for us being in the way! I was ready for fists!
Now, in real life, Michelle and I joke any time there is a bike rider slowing traffic, or being a pain in some way. We will say “Damn bike riders!” And then smile.
I said that then and there and struck a nerve. Nine looked and me and in no uncertain terms said, “I am am an urban cyclist! I ride everywhere.” After explaining to her it was an inside joke and how much I ride, I was able to assuage feelings a bit. Oops….
We went up to park that overlooked the Tiber River.
This is where the family that controlled the river tariffs lived, and the Order of Malta Knights helped enforce the tariffs.
It turned out to be one of the people in the group’s birthday. Nina and Beyah had brought along cream puffs and presecco. We toasted the birthday boy, learned to sing happy birthday in Italian and had a oh my gawd SO yummy creampuff! (my first ever!)
In the park was this stump.
This is done by an artist Andrea Gandini. He travels Europe to carve old stumps and trees that have fallen. Check him out on Instagram @Gandini.Andrea.
We then went into one of the oldest churches still standing, the Basilica of St Sabina.
The oldest churches in Rome, predated Christianity, and were therefore Pagan churches. All churches old or new, are in the shape of a rectangle. When you enter the new churches, you enter on one of the short ends of the church and can see the long grandeur of the church as soon as you enter. Experiencing the awe of the Almighty.
These old churches are different. You enter on a side door and see the opposite side.
But when you turn, then the Awe hits!
From then on it was fun to go into churches to see just how old they were based on what side you entered.
Just past this church is an unassuming green door.
It has a keyhole that allows you to look through and see a hidden garden, but in the distance is the Vatican! (the second picture before came from one of the other tour members, Jackie, mycamera did not work well enough)
I had never heard of this, and without our trusty guide, I never would have!
From there we went down the hill and, for the first time met the Roman wall. This was the 19 kilometers of wall (about 12 miles) of wall that enclosed ancient Rome.
After 2000 years, there are still 12 out of the 19 kilometers still standing. It was fun spotting the wall throughout the rest of the time we were in Rome.
The mind blower though? There is a pyramid in Rome!
I mentioned before that when Rome conquered a country, they stole the culture and icons that were there. Hence the obelisks around the city,
However, this is a pyramid. Fun fact, in Ancient Rome, laws prevented people from being buried within the walls of Rome. So of course, magistrate and priest Caius Cestius, decided to have himself buried outside the wall in a pyramid… Personally I think he was a bit of a drama king here, but you decide!
Here, ladies and gents, after the pyramid, my mind was blown. In ancient times, all goods were transported in amphoras. This was of course, pre amazon boxes. Amphoras were clay pots.
Fun fact, some could be reused. However, those that carried olive oil were only good for one trip. The olive oil contaminated the pot. Therefore the pots had to be disposed of. As we walked, Nina had us look at a hill about 300 ft high and mile long. But she didn’t say why. Then we stopped. Right in front of this,
Folks, there is a hill at least 300 ft high and a mile long that is made up of broken clay amphoras carefully stacked. Over the years dirt and dust has filled in the cracks, allowing the grass to grow. I am seriously sorry there is no photo of the hill!
As we went further into the neighborhood, Nina made sure we saw saw some modern art by Roa.
This is a much more modern interpretation of the she-wolf of Rome. Roa is known for his building murals around Europe. I found it interesting that this art was near an abandoned military base that people have been squatting in for years. Housing is expensive and very hard to get in Rome. The artist lived with the squatters while he was painting this. He wanted to understand the people.
Nina live near here. She let us know that she goes to the grocery store for dry goods, but for meat and fruit she hits up the open market. who can blame her!
Afterwards, it was time for lunch!
It was the home of Prosciutto and Guanciale!
Truly I was surprised the feet were still there!
At first was a charcuterie plate!
Then later a pasta lunch! I was a happy boy!
We decided to walk home after along the Tiber river and through the Jewish ghetto.
We got home and rested for a bit, then hit a wine/snack bar dinner. It was truly a fun day!
One last photo, this is the Mascherone fountain.
In the 1500s, this was first built the Roman Forum area, but in the 1800s it was moved up the hill to the current location, over 300 years later, I was able to say hi!
Total walking time, 9.58 miles today, 35.18 total.
Truly, this may have been my favorite day of the Rick Steves Tour! We got to go inside the Colosseum of Rome!
This was one of the things I had been looking forward to since we started planning the trip to Rome. Every movie with a gladiator or a chariot race showed this ancient, immense structure. I couldn’t wait to go inside!
Our day did NOT start there though…
We met up with a local guide, Francesca. A lovely, and very knowledgeable lady.
In the last post I neglected to tell a story.
When we were in the Pantheon, Nina had us form a ‘Roman Wall’ around her. She is a guide for Rick Steves and can take us anywhere outside. But in buildings. such as the Pantheon or the Colosseum, one must have a local licensed guide! Our wall sheltered her from getting in trouble as we took shelter from the storm the night before!
Today, we had Francesca who was, in fact, licensed.
We didn’t start at the Colosseum though, instead she led us to the Peter in Chains church.
Background story: An empress met the pope. To impress him, she brought with her the chains that imprisoned Peter, the follower of Jesus. The Pope was excited, as he had a set of chains as well. When he busted them out to show her, they suddenly, and miraculously fused into one big chain! This chain can now be seen in this church.
This was a fun story, but that is not what blew my mind on this morning.
Aside from the chains, there is a huge statue inside.
This is titled Moses. Now let your mind wrap around this. It was carved by Michelangelo. THE Michelangelo of sistine chapel fame! This is a priceless work of art, by a master carver, just sitting in a church! No security, no entrance fee, no guards. Free to wander in and enjoy.
No lie, this is the very moment I realized I was in a new world and my mind expanded. There was no limit to what I would see this week!
Now take a close look at Moses…
The man has full on horns growing out of his head! This was due to a misprint of all things!
When Moses came down from on high with the commandments, we now know he was a glow. However, glow and horns, in the ancient translation are very similar… Hence the horns!
As a man know for his typos, I giggled about this all day long!
Next was the Colosseum, it did not disappoint.
Francesca was amazing. The very first thing she pointed out was the restoration work.
Those doing the restoration and stabilization of the ruins do not want to fool you! The goal is for you to be easily discern the ancient architecture from the new. It should be similar, but distinct. The photo above shows the upper level which is uniform and perfect, the restoration, The lower is the original.
After she pointed this out is was SO easy to see!
Some fun facts about the Colosseum.
It was used for over 500 years.
It could hold over 50,000 screaming Romans.
Tbere was a schedule: Morning, animal battles, lunch, executions, afternoon, gladiators
Tickets were free.
Most Gladiators didn’t die! They were too expensive to replace.
The most important part? There are two cats who call the Colosseum home! And they are well cared for!
We were not lucky enough to see them, but they have the run of the place! Imagine being a cat and having the entire Colosseum as your cat tree!
Francesca made a point to NOT harp on the killing. Though it’s possible over 400,000 people died over the years here. She made sure to tell us that ancient Romans were both blood thirsty and innovated. Both loving and had the desire to conquer the world! They did not discriminate by race, but they also had no qualms about defeating and plundering anyone they darn well felt like!
Before I share more photos I have to tell you this! After Rome fell, the Colosseum stopped being used. The population of Rome dropped from over a Million to 30,000. People moved in and squatted. The started pillaging the walls for metals, and made new holes in the walls to help them build tents and places to sleep in private. You can see the damage they did to this day
In the 1800s, it had become so filled with dirts and dust, silt from the flooding Tiber River, that it became a botanical garden. Seeds from animal droppings, seeds dropped by birds as they flew over, they all thrived! I wish there was at least a photo!
Nowadays, the floor is long gone, and we can see into the basement.
This is where animals were raised to the floor to fight and were gladiators were held until the fight! No lie, these guys had hand powered elevators!
Early in its history, they even flooded it to reenact epic sea battles! Damn I woulda loved to see that!
You can just feel the history as you stand there looking around, I would have loved to have head lamp and 24 hours to explore the whole place. Sadly though we didn’t have all day, soon we had to check out the Roman Forum.
To get to the Forum you had to enter though the Arch of Titus.
These were erected to celebrate a major victory by a general. This is one of the remaining 4 arches in the city
The forum was the town square or the meeting place for the city. It’s where the tribes from the different hills came down to meet and eventually formed Rome. It’s where the senate met to debate and govern. It was the thriving center, heartbeat and brain trust of ancient Rome. Everywhere you looked were ruins.
Julius Caesar, on the Ides of March, was assonated near here, then his body was brought to the forum for cremation. Tell me that does NOT scream history!
This was built in 141 AD. Notice how many steps there are to the front door. This pagan temple was converted to a Catholic Church and was being used when the Forum was in its hay day.
However, over time Rome fell. As mentioned above, the population dropped. The aqueducts failed, and people started scavenging materials to survive. The Forum was covered in marble, and there were a multitude of marble statues. Marble is pretty, but not that useful in hard times. However, if you heart marble high enough, you get limestone, which IS useful. This was a the fate of many statues and facades.
But that’s not what I was talking about when I mentioned this temple made me think.
The front door is a good 30 feet up from the dirt level. Check out all the stairs you had to climb!
Now look at this picture of the same place, from 1857.
Do you see it?
The front door is at ground level! The Forum, in 1857 was buried 30 feet deep! As Francesca put it. in the last 3000 or so years, this area went from a swamp, to the the center of the known world. to a cow pasture, and now a set of ruins! This just made me sit and think… This area was thriving when some of the biggest redwoods in California were still pine cones…. The started really excavating the Forum in he 1950s or so.
Better yet, anywhere you are in Rome, there is SOMETHING buried below you… Waiting there to be discovered! (more on that in a later post.)
We said goodbye to Francesca and went off for a group lunch. It was an excellent helping a pasta with veggies, that I devoured. Suddenly they were serving a salad! Turns out in Italy, salad is NOT the first course! Who knew!
From there we were left to our own devices. Which for us was exploring the town and taking photos!
I was not happy someone spelled my name incorrectly!
And honestly she did NOT seem happy to us!
I was bummed I just couldn’t get this into my luggage!
As I said, I was very excited to see the Colosseum. But looking back, even though there was so much to see, and still learn, I think this was my favorite day in Rome! This was one of a lower mile walking days. Only 6.5 miles this day. A grand total of 25.6 miles thus far.
We woke up Sunday morning, and it was Michelle’s and my 13th wedding anniversary. I was SO proud of myself for remembering to pack and successfully hide an anniversary card! When she woke up it was right there to see,.
I went through a lot of cards looking to find just the right one! When found it was snagged, written is and packed away.
Michelle started reading it and then just busted out with laughter. It was a funny card, but I didn’t think that funny. When she could breathe again she said, “This card says ‘Happy Birthday!'” I grabbed it from her and sure nuff……
She had this huge smile and told me, “I love it even more now, it is truly you!” Well as we all know, it’s the thought that counts!
We met Kaye and were off to find breakfast. In Rome, breakfast is not pancakes, cereal or eggs. It’s usually a pastry and coffee, leaving room for bigger meals later. In Rome, there is a Bar every 100 feet of so. A Bar is essentially a bakery/coffee shop/convenience store all in one. It’s where Italians stop in for breakfast.
Also! Helpful tip. The Bars always have restrooms! It is always polite to buy something, like a bottle of water. Our guide Nina also advised always have a package of tissues with you, as there aint always TP….
Once we learned this, we tried to go to a different one each day. I am pretty sure they all get their food from the same bakery, but it was fun to try new places. For the record, the vanilla cream filled croissant is AMAZING!!! (And I am not a cream filled fan!)
I busted out Google maps and we were off to Trevi Fountain.
The tradition is you throw coins into the fountain, with your back turned, and over your left shoulder. We learned later, 1 coin means you will come back to Italy alone, 2 coins means you will come back the the people you came with, 3 means you will come back with different people. (We came back later to make sure we threw in 2!
There are many different legends regarding the number of coins. One I read said if you don’t throw one in, you will split up with the person you are with. One thing that is a fact, once a week the fountain is turned off, the coins are gathered and the funds go to help feed those in need! Loved that!
After getting a snack and coffee, we were off to the Spanish Steps.
At the bottom is the Barcaccia fountain, designed by Bernini (more about him later)
At the top is the the church of Santissima Trinità dei Monti, and the Sallustiano Obelisk (one of the 13 ancient Egyptian Obelisks still standing in Rome. (More than are in Egypt))
Evidently it used to be a thing to sit on these steps for hours at a time to watch the world go by. So many people did so that no one could use the steps. Now there is a 400 euro fine for sitting too long, and I saw police moving people off who evidently didn’t know this.
It was then time to just mosey around. We weren’t meeting up with the tour until later that evening, so we had time to kill. I tried to make friends with one of the locals, but this guy looked like he was having a BAD day!
And we discovered Parrots who have escaped their cages thrive very well in Rome.
Honestly it was just fun, we roamed quite a while. Michelle and Kaye did window shopping, I shout photos, and before we knew it we had made to Piazza del Popolo.
This used to be the main entrance into and through the walls of Rome. I am reading a book now that mentions Charles VIII, king of France, and his army, entered here on the way to meet Pope Alexander VI. It was fun knowing exactly where this was!
Later that afternoon we met the Rick Steves Tour group and our Guide Nina. She is an American who now lives in Rome and has for quite a while. She was assisted by a lady training to be a Rome guide (She guides elsewhere). In my journal I wrote. “We met guide Nina and her helper, Bear (tiny woman)”
For the record I called her bear for 3 days before someone corrected and said her name was Beyuh (BAY-uh) In my defense, she is native Italian, so her English, though good, is heavily accented and I am bit slow…
After introductions, we were off of the first walk. Nina’s first bit of advice: This is holy week so there will be a lot a people, big crowds. So when going through them, do as the Italians do. ‘Be Like Water’. Just let yourself flow through the gaps!
Damned it that did not work! All week long, including the airports, we would say “be like water!” and we just seemed to melt through the masses. Try it next time you are stuck in a crowd.
We walked along part of the same route we three had done the day before, but now we had a guide. I had seen this, but had no idea what it was.
Turns out, this area, right between 2 roads, is an excavation uncovering a Gladiator training barracks. This is one place they learned to fight before going to the Colosseum! Nina told us then and there, “Anywhere you are in Ancient Rome, stop and think, ‘Huh, I wonder what is under me? Because without a doubt, no matter where you are, it was built atop something.
She went on to explain that the Tiber river that goes through the city used to flood so often, that it would dump layers and layers of silt in and around buildings. In fact, it flooded so much, that the legendary 7 hills of Rome aint that tall anymore, as the valley’s below them filled with silt.
We were walking and learning new things, and had just gotten to this ancient, low rent apartment building (no really, she said these were slum lord apartments in ancient times)
When all HAIL broke loose!
This came out of nowhere! I had seen the clouds, but they didn’t seem that dark, but these stones were NOT small! I had a rain shell and waterproof hat (showers were in the forecast) Michelle had an umbrella. but we weren’t ready for this!
We took shelter in a nearby church (there is one on every block!) But it was just not slowing. As a good sherpa does (this was one of my main responsibilities for Kaye and Michelle) I took stock on them make sure they were ready to go, as we had to leave soon to get to dinner. (Group dinner reservations for the whole tour)
Michelle had a warm coat and umbrella, so she was good. Kaye though had a thin coat, it was already soaked, and no umbrella. Not good!
However, when the rains start, suddenly street vendors appear with ponchos and umbrellas! I passed one 5 Euros, and handed Kaye a brand new umbrella. She was not expecting this! If I didn’t already have a warm spot in her heart as the hubby of one of her best friends, I woulda earned one that day!!
Nina decided to move us to another area of shelter, closer to dinner, The Pantheon.
Now let this sink in, and it’s stuff like this that made me love Rome. This sucker is over 2000 years old. It was completed in 19 BC. It’s been in use ever since. Plus, to this day, it is the largest concrete unsupported dome in the world!! Hearing that just blew my mind!
Nearby is the smallest of the Obelisks, Minerveo, with an elephant base designed by Bernini.
We were still wet and yes cold, but dinner at L’Imgegmo Del Giorno was close by! Dinner was zucchini flower, not bad, veggie risotto (OMG yum) and panicota (sp) (OMG SO YUM!) cold vanilla cream with fresh fruit!!!)) I am not a dessert fan, but I wanted to lick the bowl!
The plan was to take the whole group to Trevi fountain after dinner, but the rains were steady. It would have been another hour outside. NO. Nina made the call and piled all of us (I never counted but 20 at least) onto the 85 bus to go back to the hotel!
It was packed! But we all fit. Funny thing, I met a guy from Portland who recognized my WSU COUG hat! Small world! The windows were so fogged up, I had NO idea where we were. However, Nina made sure we all understood one Italian word, ANDIAMO (ON dee AH mo). It means let’s go, move now. follow me, GO! At one point the doors opened and she shotted “ANDIAMO!” and out we flowed!
On the walk back from bus stop I noticed the wine shop was almost closed. But the glass door was open, and slide down metal gate was only a quarter of the way down. I peeled off from the group and ducked in to see if it was too late for a bottle of wine purchase. Luckily he, like most people we met actually, spoke a bit of English! I asked it I was too late, he replied CASH ONLY! BOOM! Michelle and I were able to enjoy a glass of wine in our room while listening to the rain!
It was a day to remember, and only our first day of the tour! So the day before this, we ended up walking 8 miles (per our Apple Watches). Today, it was 11.1 miles. In two days we had walked 20.1 miles!
So back in 2020, you know the year the world closed, Michelle and I had planned to go to Rome and Paris as a 10th wedding anniversary present to ourselves. She had been, I hadn’t. But, as we all know now, no one flew to Italy that year.
Fast forward to 2023 and the trip was back on! Michelle and I, along with one of her best friends, and frequent travel buddy, Kaye, were ready to go. The plan was a 7 Day Rick Steves tour of Rome, then fly to Paris for 4 days of them showing me around, then home. It worked great!
I don’t want to cram a 2 week vacation into one post, so there will be multiple posts. It’ll be more fun that way!
We weren’t sure it was going to be a happy trip at the beginning of the week though. Our boy cat, Mewson is 16, and Saturday was hiding under the bed. He was getting progressively worse as the week on (we flew out Thursday). It was bad enough I offered to stay home to take care of him.
We took him to the vet Tuesday, fully intending to have to say goodbye to him for last time. Late Tuesday night the vet called and they found the problem. an anal gland abscess! Painful, but simple to repair. We got him Wednesday morning and he was already more energetic! He is doing great now. In fact he is sitting on the couch with me as I type! It was a much happier flight than I anticipated.
We got to Portland Thursday morning, and checked in to our flight.. We were flying Delta to Amsterdam and then on to Rome. Kaye was coming out of Seattle and would be on the same flight with us to the final destination.
We scored big time on the flight, I had an empty seat next to me, a much more comfortable flight than it coulda been! We had a huge burrito lunch at the airport so we were able to skip the plane food! Another great plan from my world traveling wife! Michelle and Kaye warned me I needed to stay awake in order to combat the 9 hour jet lag. So I watched the free movies and kept track of the flight status on the monitor.
We got to Amsterdam on time, but now it was Friday morning, and had a 5 hour lay over. It was nice to get up and move, plus have plenty of time to get through immigration, get a snack, and watch people in a full on sprint to their flights. I truthfully have never been in an airport with so many people at a dead run.
Kaye was not as lucky. She had less than an hour layover, and where we had only 2 people in the passport line, her’s stretched back for quite a ways back. She had time to spare when she got through, but it was touch and go for a bit.
We got to Rome on time, yes! Luggage accounted for, SWEET. The driver Kaye arranged for us was only 5 minutes late, so no worries! We were off to the hotel!
Folks, I have driven in rush hour traffic in Seattle for decades. I have survived the freeways in Dallas Texas (no mean feat) but as gawd as my witness, I will NEVER EVER drive in Rome. Those people are crazy! Vespas cutting in and out, cars squeezing in where my bike wouldn’t fit and tiny narrow streets… I was very happy I would not be driving until I got back to the states!
We stayed at the Hotel Lancelot, just a stones throw from from the Colosseum. It’s an older hotel, but Michelle spoiled us with a top floor room that had a view of the Colosseum itself!
My only complaint was the A/C didn’t really work, but opening the window did the trick! The elevator was barely big enough for two people and luggage. One of the staff told me that almost every elevator in old Rome is a prototype. It had to be fit into whatever part of the building it could. The one in our hotel was not the smallest by far! Our deck was truly amazing!
We dropped our stuffed and freshened up a bit, and headed out looking for dinner. We were lucky enough to stumble onto Na Macchia just down the block from us. We ordered our pasta and asked the server to select a wine, I almost choked when he said, “Do you know Pinot Noir??” (that’s Oregon’s State wine!) it was good!
Bit of a side note here, EVERYwhere we went people spoke enough English to understand us. We also tried when we could to use the Italian we knew. There was never an issue ordering food, oh buying what we needed.
After dinner was a 15 minute walk or so and then bed! We were tired!
Saturday we were a bit slow getting started. It had been a VERY long travel day the day before. We had planned to hit Trevi Fountain, but postponed that for Sunday due to the late start.
We had Tickets for Castel Sant’Angelo a huge castle turned museum. This was the one thing, not on our tour, that I thought would be fun. So off we went! Along the way, we passed the Colosseum,
The Roman Forum (though we didn’t know that then)
And the spot Julius Caesar was killed on the Ides of March. (we didn’t know that either!)
Luckily for us, Google maps works well in Rome. Verizon has a deal where they charge you $10 per day when you use your phone there. Day one I became “Mr. Maps!” Leading the way to different places! (more on that later)
Soon we were crossing the Tiber River and the Castle was ahead of us.
Legend has it that the Arch Angel Michael appeared and decreed “Build the castle here!” There are statues for him everywhere inside.
In truth, it was built as a tomb for the Emperor Hadrian, but I like the arch angel story better!
There was a long line waiting to get in when we got there. However, Kaye travels a lot, and she made sure we purchased tickets for all the things we wanted to see on our own. I walked to the front and should the guy our tickets, and we were ushered right in! NICE!
I enjoyed this visit. It’s a one way route through all the rooms
And then you end on the roof with a great view of the Tiber river, the city and the Vatican!
Afterwards, it was time to head back toward the Hotel. Funny thing, between the 3 of us, we figured out how to get there all on our own. Took all three of us to do it, but that was a good omen in my book.
So it turns out we were in Rome during Holy Week. This means more people than normal were visiting. What we soon noticed, was there were also a ton of nuns walking through town as well! I felt like I had to mind my manners with all of them around!
We circled around the other side of the Colosseum, then back to the hotel. It was off to dinner. I won’t share the name of the place. It was ok, but the service stunk and the food wasn’t up to the standards of the first night. It wasn’t terrible, just not noteworthy!
Our first full day in Rome was a success! It was off to bed, with plans for an early start Sunday for Trevi Fountain. Which will be the next post!
Fun Rome fact, The symbol below is all over Rome. I represents the founding of the city. Twins Romulus and Remus, sired by the God of War Mars, were sent down a river in a basket to save them from an evil king (think Moses). The came ashore and were saved by a Sheppard who had a she-wolf that suckled the twins saving their lives.
Oregon Coast Cyclist 